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Thread: Teardrop Trailer Build

  1. #1
    Senior Member Marnochs's Avatar
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    Teardrop Trailer Build

    Well, since I'm nearing completion of my Payload Master 100, I'll soon have the problem of choosing favorites of my tow planes. I don't want to wound the egos of my tow planes since they might start acting out ( or up ) to protest. This put me on a quest to obtain a trailer for tow plane transport.
    Started out in the usual process of perusing what others had at the flying field. Factors I was taking into account were trailer size and tow vehicle. I like my 2008 Dodge Caravan and don’t really want to sell it to buy something with not as good gas mileage. I was pondering the fact that all I really needed was the back half of my Caravan as a trailer. In my search for a trailer of that size I stumbled across a Teardrop trailer build website that was very detailed. The main focus was to build a Off-road capable Teardrop trailer. It had great looks and was about the right size.

    Here’s the link
    http://www.outbackteardrop.com/

    The original Teardrops are typically 4’x 8’, the outback teardrop trailer is just shy of 57” x 9’. I made the mod on mine to be 57” x 10’ to fit the Payload Master with some spare room).

    After the frame fabrication, painting and turn signals were out of the way, it was time to do battle with the Department of Motor Vehicles to get it Licensed ( so I could transport the 4x10 plywood). Wasn't quite sure how to do it but I turned to Google and struck gold. Typed in "teardrop registration California" and wouldn't you know it, somebody's website/blog had a listing of all the hoops I had to jump through (with links to the necessary DMV forms required ) Super Cool.

    Picked up the wood this weekend for the sides (4' x 10' ) and roof. Now I can start cutting the Oak for the frame....stay tuned

    End Photo is Photoshop Enhanced of what my ultimate Goal is.... keeps me motivated
    ( you can see the Pilatus TurboPorter gear leg and Pratt & Whitney logo-backwards)

    Scott
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  • #2
    Administrator Len's Avatar
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    Very neat Scott, thats one way to make a custom trailer. Does the top hing up or just access through the side door?

    LEN
    It's not complicated, bigger is better.

  • #3
    Senior Member sruelle's Avatar
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    Scott,

    You have all my attention. Just bought for father day a 4x8 frame with the intend to build a trailer.

    Keep the pictures coming

    Stéphane, looking for some inspiration

  • #4
    Senior Member Marnochs's Avatar
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    Hi Len and Stépane

    The hindend opens up like a hatchback with gas struts to hold it open. Should be a 48" x 57" opening for loading and unloading the fusealges. Side door is to get to the front of the trailer when loaded.
    First picture is from orignal Mechanix Illustrated magizine article. Second is from Outback teardrop website photos showing rear hatch.

    Scott
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    Last edited by Marnochs; 08-31-2011 at 03:44 AM.

  • #5
    Administrator Len's Avatar
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    Very cool, I saw one last summer here in CT, A customer of mind had one their son used when he went on weekend excursions.

    LEN
    It's not complicated, bigger is better.

  • #6
    Senior Member Marnochs's Avatar
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    Sub Floor Frame

    Moderate Progress with interruptions by a thunder storm (tiny) and a tool failure.
    Finally got up the courage to start hacking away at the oak 1.75" x 4" stock wood to coax it into something that resembles a sub-floor. Made a bushel of Oak shavings/dust in the process.

    When I was laying out the wood to pick the straightest pieces, I found the top tubing welds were keeping the wood from laying flat, so out came the angle grinder to solve the problem. A little bit of additional Rustoleum to cover over the newly exposed metal and all was well.

    Had a tool failure when cutting out the first Rabbit joint, couldn’t figure out why the depth kept changing on my cut, …….then bink….the bit was no longer spinning. I’m just glad it “just” stopped spinning and didn’t decide to go for a walkabout.

    Using Gorilla Glue to make all the connection – moisturized both connecting surface since its Oak. Used waxed freezer paper to avoid gluing the subfloor to the frame yet. Once the frame is complete, I’m going to flip it over and seal the bottom with a light coating of West System’s epoxy.

    Scott
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  • #7
    Senior Member Marnochs's Avatar
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    The Sidewalls

    Got the sidewalls cut out and matched - used a beltsander with the walls clamped together.

    Minor panic on installation as I found out Oak is very stout wood and snapped the #12 wood screws easily. All this while the Gorilla Glue was foaming up. Got smart on the otherside and clamped the bottom on first, then went back and drilled the pilot holes, then the counter sink, then installed the wood screws ( put Gorilla glue in the holes to prevent the screws frome backing out in the furture )

    Started on the Roof Bows - 1 1/2" sq Oak

    Scott
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  • #8
    Senior Member Marnochs's Avatar
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    More fun with the roof bows. I had seen reports of the outer roof deforming between the roof bows so I'm opting for some stringers between the bows and one extra bow at the front radiius. I have all the straight stringers installed, now its time for making patterns for the curvey ones.

    Looks like its time to buy a vent for the roof so I can frame it in.



    Scott
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  • #9
    Senior Member yyz's Avatar
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    Scott,

    In the next go-around, I'm coming back as your son! You are THE cool project master.

    Mike

  • #10
    Senior Member sruelle's Avatar
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    Nice workcraft!

    keep going, I need some idea to move on that trailer project for the winter.

    What kind of vent will you use?

    Stéphane

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